A little tendonitis in the left elbow, a little bursitis in the right shoulder. Makes it hard to traing.
But, meh. It's nothing compared to the worst of the neuropathy I had earlier in the year. I'd live with this. It's responsive to doses of Aleve.
You know what will also fatigue it? Filing before shooting. You'd be surprised how much a little back and forth with a file can wear you out.
When I made my T-Bolt 1911 two years ago there was talk of a metal finishing class. Which never did happen, so I have procrastinated since. My slide was also sorts of scratched up. I had to use a device to squeeeeeeeeze it together to get a better frame to slide fit that didn't rattle side to side. This vise fitting, and the rest of build, introduced LOTs of little scratches and some not so little.
So, first some dry filing. Then with sandpaper use the file as a sanding block and work through the grits. Keep it straight and lubricated on the finer grits to avoid scratch ramps. Don't contaminate with coarser grits. Don't let the side you just finishe get scratched doing the other side. All thing I learned. But the slide is much much better looking now.
Now, sights and a little shaping on the dish top of the beaver tail and done.
Update: Pics would have been used for the Before, but I was too ashamed of the gouges then. The After pics are much better, but still utilitarian and not something I am proud of, just good enough.
Library Work
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This evening, I worked my way backwards from Gibson though Bujold and
into Brunner (including *Shockwave* Rider, a proto-cyberpunk future that
almost ...
5 hours ago
8 comments:
PICS!
I suggest that if you want a flat surface you put the abrasive paper on something flat, surface plate, a piece of tabletop glass, a piece of marble, anything like that and then work what you are trying to get cleaned up across the abrasive.
After that you might want to invest in a buffing wheel and some polishing compounds.
Things happen, and I'm betting it shoots just fine, scratches or not! :-)
Smaller granite surface plates are surprisingly modest in price, or you could scout around for a reject headstone, or a bit of stone counter top.
I've seen granite surface plates in equipment auctions. From ~6" square to 4'++ in size. Sometimes really cheap. When they approach 18" or so, they often come with a rolling steel frame that puts it at a good working height.
Besides bespoke surface plates for measuring, often you can find some obsolete piece of manufacturing equipment mounted on a chunk of granite surface plate. This may entail a few mounting and pass-through holes, but as long as you have enough surface to work with, this may be a very cheap option. And that granite WILL have a framework to hold it. Examine the working surface for damage and flatness. Some chips can be filled with a silver epoxy.
I would just use a marble floor tile. Home Depot. $5.
What makes you think tiles are flat?
flat enough. flatter than the slide. I'm not looking for a surface plate +/- 0.0001 here.
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