Tuesday, April 5, 2016


I like stainless steel guns.  My back sweat doesn't rust them up so bad.  They are also relatively easy to repair cosmetic blemishes in the finish.  Like the kind you get when you are making a 1911 and you have too much side to side play in the slide, and then you have to use a special tool to squeeze the slide back together. 

This tool leaves a mark.  Sawright.

Or you are a stupid STUPID baby n00b gunsmith that put a big gouge in the slide being an idiot with the slide release.  STOOPID!!!!  Not that I may have done anything like that, no.

Anyway, 400 grit abrasivs cloth is about the same finish as you find on a typical 1911 stainless gun, right from the factory.  So you can match up decently.  On the flat parts, slide and frame.  The rounder areas are often bead blasted.  If you refinish a slide with sandpaper beware the transitions between sanded flats and bead blasted curves.  You can much it up and make the slide look wonky.

Always use oil! 

There is a shop made tool that works well with 1 inch abrasive tape. I used a bandsaw to make two, and have the makings for two more sanding blocks.

The little slot circled helps hold the sanding materials.


jon spencer said...

For some polishing, I have a (cheap) battery operated toothbrush which I use with lapping compound or rouge.
Finding the correct combination of grit and pressure takes a little experimenting though.
Have even glued different types of pads on the brush end too, found that a soft piece of leather works most of the time.

Greg said...

A little beyond me to try and build a 1911, but I do like the "made in shop" sanding block. The slot looks like it may have a lot of give however. Thinking I may but a velcro strap across the top for some detail work. Nice post!