Ok, so the complex inner workings of the revolver aren't nearly so mysterious for me.. Stuff I learned:
- First, you need to remove the sideplate without prying on it or munging it up.
- Then, the hammer string is outted, so you can now remove the other parts, in order.
- Hammer next. You have to pull the trigger part way to clear some spots.
- The rebound. Careful, that spring is strong and will zip across the room.
- The trigger and hand is next. Removing the hand is simple, and easy to reinstall when you know the trick
- The cylinder stop is next. Another spring.
- Do you need to remove the cylinder release and bolt? Another spring and plunger to watch for.
At first peak it looks more complicated than the 1911, but after playing with it, it seems simpler, in a way. Again once you know.
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So, I found out what was causing the broken revolver issue.
Someone has been inside the gun and files on the sear part of the trigger. Nice sharp edge on it. With ended up wearing a groove in the part that meets with the hammer. A groove. Yeah, stay out of the inside of your guns, people, if you don't know what you are doing and aren't being supervised by a grown up.
Anyway, this will be hard to mess with because it needs a new hammer and trigger in order to make it safe.
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Now, MY gun, the good gun. It got worse as I went along. Timed well initially, now it can't time well. I found a pin that was too proud and binding up the gun. It wasn't binding up the gun before. The center pin inside the extractor wasn't pushing out enough, opening the cylinder was sticky. Easy fix on that by filing down the tip of the extractor rod. Working on time will take more than an oversize hand, so an ejector is on order for next week. Ugh. Crossing my fingers.
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Win some, lose some... But at least you now know...
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