I am rethinking using compressed air to clean guns.
It's a boon. Spray/wipe on your solvent, brush some. Blow off the dirt and solvent, and it gets in the nooks and crannies. I learned this from Eugene Stoner. (6:30)
But I also learned from Mr. Pete when he was refurbing and Atlas lathe. The air blows bits of stuff into places you don't want it to be. Use a brush. In the machine shop
Now, shooting air at dirt is different from blowing metal shavings around. Not nearly so damaging. The worry-wart in me still worries about blowing debris deeper into the innards. A tiny bit. The firing-pin hole on a 1911. The same and past the hand in a revolver and down into the lockwork. Or past the hammer. I'm a little less worried with 1911 lockwork because that area is a bit more open.
I should really just relax. Especially after seeing Tam torture test her custom 1911 with her 2000 round without cleaning challenge.
"Why T-Bolt? Tam was getting lots of jam-up failures near the end!"
True. But her gun has tight tolerances (like mine) and she was mostly able to restore functionality by just a few drops of lubricant. Even tight guns can be reliable with just a tiny bit of attention. And I can give mine a tiny bit of attention. Heck, how many people can detail strip their 1911? Get the side plate safely on and off their revolver? THAT was the primary purpose I went to beginner gunsmith classes. I had no idea how to get a 1911 back together once the disconnector and sear fall out. Nor how to get that sideplate off without munging it all up royal. Well, it is super easy to get a good cleaning done if you do that.
But then that makes me want to get a parts washer or ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, again... You know I say that, but I really don't know how well that'd clean a detail stripped gun.
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