Intriguing! I think I know where they are going with this from the purty picture but lemme RTWT, like the kids in the internet say.
Ok.
The thought with this product. It's a 1911 barrel bushing replacement. To make a gun with parts that move more accurate you got to have the gun lockup in the same place consistently every time. There are several points of contact on a barrel, in this case a 1911 barrel. The barrel hood, the top lugs, the bottom lugs and link, and, as we are looking at here, at the barrel bushing.
The tighter the barrel bushing the tighter the lockup hold, the better the accuracy, is the theory.
Now if you already have a gun, making the the other parts tighter is a major undertaking, but the bushing is a relatively simple job in comparison. You get an oversized bushing, reduce the outer diameter on a lathe type device with files or sandpaper, and you reduce the inner diameter with a tapered reamer. For this operation you only need oil, a rawhide mallet, the lathey-thing, files, reamer, abrasive sheets, vise, and bushing wrench. So, not that expensive. You prolly already have a bushing wrench, Brownells gives them out as swag.
Or you can get this new thing from Ingenious Gun Works. The problem it solves is tightening up the inner diameter of a bushing.
Sorta like the old collet bushings did for Colt back in the 70s.
The outer diameter may still have some give, but the inner will be still with this spring insert.
Seems to me that the spring insert would be better than the old collet bushing, but that spring will wear out. The company even sends spare springs for the inevitable replacement. I'd personally change this spring frequently. If the spring breaks I don't see how it would stop your gun, so that is good. If it breaks 'in the field' you might not even notice it until you field strip the guns and the wires fall out. And I bet it would work just fine without a spring in there, you just wouldn't realize the accuracy gains you think you are getting from a whole working spring in place.
Does it help with accuracy? How should I know?! I've only built 1 and a half 1911s with heavy supervision, and I have never tested this product at all.
In theory, tho? Well, you could really use some other points of contact on the breech end, too. In theory. Let's say this springy thingy thing works great! Just as advertised (and $50 isn't that expensive for such a part). The muzzle is always in the exact same relative place in the frame on lockup. But the back end moves to a slightly different spot every time. You gun doesn't get a lot of extra accuracy. Maybe some. But not the way to bet. Don't blame this part is you don't get dramatic gains, the gun you installed it on has different things holding it back.
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The same company makes a drop-in no-fit hammer and sear. I am dubious until I check it out futher... Cuz I can think of a lotta things that need fitting with a hammer and sear before even starting to think about how to the stone the actual hammer and sear. OTHER parts, not the hammer and sear when new ones are introduced to the mix. And I'm just a fumblethumb n00b with the barest touch of professional gunsmith training. Hey, it might be a great product! I haven't even touched it. How would I know? If I were to try it I'd be sure of all safety checks, after installation, of course. Including this one that is hard to describe about trigger reset that I can't even do with a gunsmith sitting on my shoulder. There are SO many ways that can be messed up by a new part, and it might not be wholly the new parts fault. It's that part PLUS this part I already had in the gun that runs you into "that's where I needed a real gunsmith" for.
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