As a follow on to my S&W lamentation bout the onboard trigger locks on S&W revolvers, Windy asks: "Windy Wilson said...So, I can swap out parts on the S&W, too, and eliminate the possibility the zit will lock up at an inopportune time (as has been documented)? Who would tell me what parts to swap out, or is it a case of if I have to ask it is beyond my capabilities?"
What exactly do you have to do to get rid of the redundant lock work under that revolver zit? Is there an online resource that could help me, and Windy, out? I've been kinda intimidated to try to take the sideplate off on a revolver, myself...
Oops
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Yesterday at work about did in my legs.
It should have been no big deal. I've done it dozens of times: we
change all the replaceable light bulbs...
4 hours ago
11 comments:
The side plate has a wicked bevel. Only comes off one way.
From a person not yet up on gun parts...um...a zit?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM
Voila.
Hint for sideplate removal: DON'T PRY.
Take the grips off, take the three screws out, and gently rap the grip frame with a plastic or rubber mallet (or screwdriver handle) until the plate pops up enough to just lift off with your fingers.
Also:
The Plug.
Someone needs to invent a neoprene thingy one may cover the zit with, which will immobilize it and seal the hole.
Failing that, buy pre-zit Smiths.
The Zit is the little keyhole on the side of new Smiths right about the cylinder release. To lock the gun up safe. Anecdotal evidence is that it may well lock itself over time from the vibrations of recoil, rendering your gun inoperable at an inopportune time. Plus it's ugly.
I'd let a good Gunsmith do it (who isn't afraid of being sued because he disabled a "Safety Feature"), and have him SMOOTH the action (not necessarily lighten it) and do some performance checks, like making sure the timing is right, no forcing cone burrs, no frame stretching, etc.
I'm sure Tam agrees with me that WAY too many fine Smith revolvers have been screwed up over the decades by Mr. Fumble Fingers and his "Home Gunsmithing for Dummys" manual.
What Les says...
Being "skul-trained" to remove the sideplate on military-issue Model 10's; I would ONLY do this to my own Smiths in the most dire emergency. Much as I dislike the "zit" it ain't an emergency - yet...
Instructions to disable the lock while leaving the parts in place are at smithandwessonforum.com. Anybody with a Dremel and the skill to disassemble and reassemble the revolver can do it.
I'm at a mere 600 rounds with my zitted 640. Can someone link to where all these guns are failing?
It's as bad as searching for Glock kabooms, for every documented instance there's a 1,000 people condemning it.
I'm looking for more data before I start stripping it.
wv: sticu what I am going to do with the bill.
My 627 Performance Center failed when I got it back from the S&W shop for an unrelated problem. I pulled the flag and left everything else intact. It's not difficult.
Mine locked up on the range with rounds in the cylinder. Couldn't shoot it or unload it. Won't ever trust a defensive gun with the zit.
Next time someone asks for an example, have them email me.
You can search
http://smith-wessonforum.com/forum.php.
I've seen threads on this mod there before.
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