But what say it's the Zombacalypse and you are fresh out of FP-10 Shooters Choice. And you like to apply the usual 3 drops, every day, before turning in after a hot and dusty work filled day.
What can you use if you are out of branded gun-erl?
I wouldn't hesitate to use 3-in-1 oil. Or Singer sewing machine oil.
Didn't a gun oil company get busted for re-labeling something like cooking oil? Thing is, it worked. A bit. Certainly in a pinch. So canola or peanut might be fine. I'd love to entertain a contrary opinion if you have one. On this or any oil suggestion in the post.
Non synthetic motor oil is a bit thick. How to thin it without making it super flammable... but in a pinch I'd use it.
I'd be a bit more hesitant with synthetics or WD40, because of the extra.... stuff.... in them. Though I can be convinced my worries are unfounded on synthethics. I have seen what WD40 can do to a gun oiled with it and left in a safe. Sorta turns into poly-urethane. But if I am running the gun and re-oiling every day perhaps my worries about WD40 are too overblown. Remember: Zombacalypse. Any port in a storm.
Hey, motor oil certainly can handle the temperatures, and even a quart of synthetic is a fraction of the price of FP-10
Used motor oil? Now you are getting super desperate. But it is widely available. And dipsticks make good applicators. Definitely more new 'additives' in it now. Like burnt. And metal bits.
Sex lube? No. Sodium hydroxide feels slippery when you rub it between your fingers. Don't ever use that. Not even in a Zombacalyspse. That's not lube you are slipping on. It's you. Dissolving. Bacon grease? Better than the other two, but still not good. Salt.
So, I am about, in order, cooking oil, then motor oil, then penetrating fluids like WD40, after the good stuff is out.
7 comments:
WD40 will kill primers and doesn't do much to prevent rust in my experience.
zactly. i'd never use it expecting it to prevent rust. and only use it in an emergency to get a dry gun running. There is a reason it is last on the halfway acceptable list, only slightly ahead of salty bacon grease.
0 W40 Mobil 1 is thin even in the cold.
At $8 a quart you get enough to keep many guns lubed for (forever?).
And it works and works well as a gun lube.
After writing that, I mostly use, Finish Line Ceramic WET Bicycle Chain Lube.
That stuff has Boron Nitride as its slippery ingredient.
But it does take reapplications more often to keep things sliding.
On a 1911, with WWB or equivalent I get around 200 rounds and with a Buckmark and inexpensive 22 rounds its actually about the same round count before adding a couple of drops on sliding surfaces.
Automatic transmission fluid is a contender, at least as much as motor oil. Your car probably has a portable container, and a more or less handy applicator.
Jon is right about 0W30 synthetic. Still pours at -20. ATF works too, as do many hydraulic fluids. All are right about 10W. Also Power steering fluid.
Almost any synthetic oil below 5W is a great contender. As thin as 3 in one or sewing machine oil. Lots of cars run on 5w-30 or 0w-30 motor oil. 3 in one is about 12W and sewing machine oil is about 8W out of a new dispenser.
Just for a reference, water at room temp has a viscosity of approximately 1.00.
I'm not so sure you all are considering how lube works in guns. It's not the same as an engine. You want something that sticks to the surface, even if it is vertical. Like in a holster. Super thin oil is designed for fast spinning engine parts of engines designed to meet government fuel mileage requirements. That's not a design they are concerned about as long as it lasts longer than the warrantee. That, and electric motors with ball bearings.
I think I would try STP oil additive. Very sticky stuff. I've seen it save engines that lost all their oil content due to oil containment issues. The only two issues I would be concerned about would be where the oil might be so thick that a part would not slide together, or some critical surface such as the sear was floating on too thick a film. Each application would have to be checked for proper function, where for the typical oils, you just slather it on and get on with zombie hunting or whatever.
Will:
Too thick, and you get glue at cold temps, too thin, and you lose your fluid film under pressure. STP works well in engines that operate at higher temps. Guns generally don't operate at engine temps. They do operate at low temps though, where STP is like grease. Remember, that film you are worrying about only has to be a few tenths of a thousandth thick to work effectively.
Modern motor oils do pretty well at balancing these issues. ..I've tried motor oils in automatic firearms at different temps...from a hundred F to -30 F...they work well. And they hold a thin film for a long time, weeks even... even when vertical for a period of time. Greases are better at room temps... unless the temp is much below 40F, then the film actually slows down the slide of an automatic too much.
Stuff like 3-in-one is too thick at cold temps, and doesn't lube well once hot. Plus it thickens over time.
ATF works at most temps you are likely to use or hold a firearm at, as does 5 w and 0w multiweight motor oils. Hydraulic oil holds up well as well. And they maintain a decent film for a fairly long time.
This is predicated on a firearm being maintained at reasonable intervals, not in storage.
If I had to choose on oil after the SHTF for my firearms, I think I would choose 5w-30 or 40 motor oil. It's better than most gun oils that are marketed today.
I actually find a product called "Strike-Hold" to be a great CLP and general purpose lube for most firearms.
I've actually done the experiment with firearms (both semi auto pistols and rifles and bolt and lever rifles) and lubes...have you? Hot and cold operation? Film over time? Thickening over time due to oxidation and/or solvent evaporation?
Try your STP at 0F or even at 30F.
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