Was going over the FireClean is Soylent Crisco frooferol. I was thinking about all the different juices the guns need.
- You need erl. I like FP10, but I wonder if it isn't just slight thicker Singer Sewing machine oil? I have a bottle of it because the gunsmith told me to get it use in class. Seems slightly thicker than the lightweight 3 in 1 stuff.
- You need grease. With lots of moly! Molybdenum. For internal bits. Careful, it's dirty. Don't get it on your clothes. If you do, use Fels Naptha on the stain. Gunsmith told us to get this moly with this high percentage. 60%. Brand? No, it's a plain white container with a hand applied label. Small container, and it will last a long while.
- You need to clean the gun. Simple Green and Hoppes? Sure, why not. I've been going simpler and not CLP in an aerosol can, lately. Besides, the cans are empty and I got that big bottle of Hoppes.
- Windex for corrosive primer day
- Dry grease! Tetra. Like that on the outside rails of a Garand? Picks up less schmutz.
- Something that dissolves copper gilding.
- Silicone stuff to wipe down metal to prevent corrosion when storing the gun in that damp basement gun locker.
And I am overlooking stuff, I am sure. Is there something for lead fouling besides metal brushes?
Note: A lack of the too much gimmicky stuff. No gluten free, fumeless, all natural cage free gun solvents on the list.
I use that specific oil and grease, as I said, because I the gunsmith made me for class. Also, the gunsmith pounded in more specific information on when and where to use what kind of gun juice. I'd be greasing with ordinary tubes of gun grease and eschewing the more expensive molybdenum bisulfide whoosy whatsits, but now I know that it goes there and there and there and put oil on these 4 spots and good to go. I wasn't plug ingnorant before. I can read.
I take that back, I needed an AR person to give me the nickel tour on what to lube on that platform. I hadn't researched it as much as the M1 M1A M14 platforms.
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I've got one of those tubs of moly. Great stuff, last forever, but smells like ass that's been through a refinery fire
Oh, for lead fouling 1) Don't do that! Get your sizing, alloy, lube and load right and it won't be a problem. Or 2) I've found kroil left in the barrel for a while will actually help pop it off *IF* you haven't burnished the lead coating into the bore by shooting lots of jacketed bullets after the lead.
If you have an old bore that started rough or grey and has years of lead build-up then the electrochemical removal type tools -
purchased, or homemade are the fastest and easiest.
Fels Naphtha? VM&P (Varnish Makers And Painter' naphtha? Course it's the same as Zippo lighter fluid
Ed's Red. Homemade old time mix. Made a gallon for about $25 six or eight years ago. Haven't used a third of it yet.
http://mostlycajun.com/wordpress/?p=2886
Ed's Red is really Automatic Transmission Fluid. I actually use that as a cleaner on some guns. Think about it--designed for use in hot environments with lots of dirt and friction.
As for ARs, light oil like Break-Free on any metal-to-metal areas of the bolt carrier assy. and a drop or two on the pivot points inside the lower. Easy-peasy.
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