Thursday, September 29, 2016

Garand Gunsmithing

I mentioned I restored my Navy Garand to the condition it was in when I bought it.

It had been a while previous to that since I had touched that rifle.  In the meantime I have taken too many gunsmith classes and things I leaned there are now things I look for on all firearms, not just 1911s.

No there is no commonality between the pistol and the rifle.  But there both have parts that rub together, no?  And both have a certain way they function and there are things you know you should see and not see.  I am now more sensitive to that, for better or for worse.

Like... binding during the cycle of operation.  That can't be good.   The Garand binds a little as the bolt and op rod travel to the rear, about halfway through, said operation.

Op rods are famous for being an issue on the Garand, so, there are things to do to test it.  Like the 60 degree test.  Take the operating rod spring out and re-assemble.  If you hold the rifle up 60 degrees gravity should work the action and the bolt should slide to it's rear position of its own accord.  Then tilt it 60 degrees forward and the bolt should fall into battery.

The rifle passes this test, but there is still binding.  Binding that ISN'T present if the trigger group isn't in place and hold the lock to the stock under tension.   It's not much binding of I'd have noticed it before.  And it might not even be the operating rod being bent that is causing the trouble.  I can't quite locate the trouble area.

Also, the front handguard wiggles and rattle a bit.  That might be in spec, but I can't imagine it helps accuracy.

Also, the operating rod will sometime jump out of the track in the receiver it rides in, opposite the charging handle.  Great.

Also, the muzzle has a visible ding in the crown.  I've seen dings before and been told that while a dings crown can be very bad, some dings are an issue and others are not.  Either way, someone more experienced than me would have to make that call.

Maybe I should take it to Fulton.  It's practically a neighbor.  Great.  More money.  But I do like the guns I have to be in good working order.  Or check with Hatfield.  I know both, but have more contact with Hatfield.  Garands are cool, but not his specialty.


New Jovian Thunderbolt said...

Also get a final call about a chamber insert, if present... The presence of which practically makes this a wall hanger

Old NFO said...

When in doubt, I'd go to Fulton.

c-90 said...

If the op rod jumps out of the track, the lug that rides in the groove is worn, add binding. time for a new .308 op-rod.The loose fore grip, sounds like either the wood groove in the fore grip is either shrunk or worn down to where it's loose in the stock ferrule (Numrich schematic part 56B. See the link for parts breakdown:

Ideas to fix: a. replace complete upper handguard.

b. build up the wood tang using plastic wood and sand down to just barely fit in the ferrule groove.

c.If it's loose on the front end of the foregrip, the front ferrule or the handguard spacer, front. Needs to be worked on, there are 4 tabs (2 front and 2 rear) that bend around to hold the 3 parts together. The handguard spacer, front should be tight on the wood handguard (on the rear tabs), and just a little bit of play on the front 2 tabs (that bend around the front ferrule. (this allows for heat expansion, so the forestock doesn't get damaged when the barrel is hot. If the forestock is nice and tight in both ferrules, but still wiggles. try replacing the Gas Cylinder Lock (numrich pt no44), the lock threads that screw into the threads on the barrel were not all cut the same, the starting point of the threads differ, and you can get a tighter fit between the gas cylinder assy, and the forestock (but still leaving a litte wiggle room for barrel expansion).

Barrel Crown Ding. Either live with it, till the barrel wears out, recrown, or replace the barrel. NOTE: I've seen some comments on .308 Garands, where a new .308 full length barrel can be put on that is the same length as the .30-06 barrel, but the stock, rear handguard, and oprod would have to be replaced with full lenth parts.

Point of history, I've seen comments where the rechambering of the barrel was done by trimming 1/2in off the threads, recutting the threads and putting the barrel on and chambering for .308 NATO. which is why the oprod, stock, are rear handguard had to be modified.

Just some ideas on your problem, I'm not a gunsmith, but I've had a full size M-1 since 1989.